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| Posted By: Regular Posted On: Mar 14, 2006 Views: 1304 | Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. Ok, so I bought this car for $400. Pretty good shape. Little rust, good trans, few small problems. One, the guy used lock tight for gaskets (dumbass, it took me forever to clean up all that) I put in new spark plugs, wires, fuel filter (flushed system), but I still have a miss. Help? I'm also changing a tire myself so I can move it. Neither the dealership I go to nor walmart will put a tire on a rim without the car present (WTF?, and I'm not paying $80 to tow a working car) So, how the **** do you get those things on? I'll take it afterwards to have it balanced. |
| Posted By: sal is awsome Posted On: Mar 14, 2006 Views: 1302 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. i work at an auto body mechanic. we have a tire mounting machine and a tire balancing machine. most gas stations will also have that equipment. depending on the cost of a tire unless you already have one. it should cost less than $150 for the whole thing(tire included). this is also if the tire u need is $80-$100 brand new. as far as the miss fire i'm good with engines |
| Posted By: sal is awsome Posted On: Mar 14, 2006 Views: 1301 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. sorry. as far as the miss fire i'm NOT* good with engines. |
| Posted By: wes Posted On: Mar 14, 2006 Views: 1295 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. I've had that problem before... i think you need a new distributor cap. |
| Posted By: GirlUWant Posted On: Mar 14, 2006 Views: 1291 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. Holy Crap! I think your first mistake was buying a car for $400! LOL However, good luck... |
| Posted By: Jimmy Posted On: Mar 14, 2006 Views: 1283 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. It's James. What did you expect. Couldn't you tell by him telling WAY more info than needed (rust has nothing to do with misfires), his WTF reference, and his added BS like a place won't mount a tire without the car which is total BS. James, you did leave out one little detail that would help and that is THE YEAR AND MAKE OF THE CAR!!! You tard, how is anyone supposed to offer any real help without that? You need 3 things to keep an engine running. Spark, air, and fuel. If it was air or fuel it probably wouldn't start to begin with. Most likely it is electrical and since you changed the plugs and wires the next thing is the distributor/coil/points/rotor if applicable. Also make sure that you gapped the plugs with a proper spark plug gapping tool and not an ancient battle sword and make sure it was to your car's specs. If each cylinder has fuel injection (not likely on a $400 car) you would check those. Could be that your cam is **** of one of the cylinders or your timing is off. Odds are pretty good that since you bought it, the timing is retarded a bit. If nothing else, you could always pray to Her for help. |
| Posted By: Mr. GoodWrench Posted On: Mar 14, 2006 Views: 1282 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. Depends on make, model & year. Older cars have distributor cap & rotor, newer cars do not, possible crank, cam, O2, map, maf, IAT, EGR... Some things to check first. Does engine idle smoothly? Is the misfire on hard acceleration or light acceleration? Does the engine have mechanical noise? If the engine runs poorly at all speeds it will be actually easier to trace the fault. If engine misfire occurs at idle take note whether it is a regular miss or indiscriminate miss IE a "rumble and shake". If it is a regular misfire and follows rpm then you possibly have a mechanical fault or ignition fault or vac leak close to one cylinder. In EFI it may be a blocked or defective injector or low fuel pump pressure. We need to isolate which it is. For EFI we will unplug the suspect cylinder if it is not "ticking" or firing whilst running and check for pulses and power from the harness see if it is getting ignition to all cylinders while running. Use insulated pliers with rag, so you don't tear the lead. With the engine running and a high idle set remove one by one each lead from the cap. * Not the plug end it will zap you * If you worry about getting zapped think of it like this. It's OK to hang on to the wall plug end of a desk lamp but not the lamp socket end when its plugged in at the wall. The coil is the supply so make sure whatever you hang on to its not plugged into supply and if it is the other end is plugged into the electrical load, being the spark plug in this case. If that is not enough you can unplug a suspecting lead and then start the engine and see if there is any difference but that is the long way around. Its a good idea to loosen all the leads at the cap before you start so you don't lift the cap with it running making it crooked and destroy the rotor button. With a tacho fitted if you can get one notice if you have a drop in rpm when each lead is removed one at a time then replaced. It should be the same effect of drop on all cylinders that is the same on each cylinder when its lead is removed from the cap If a cylinder has no noticeable drop in rpm it is not firing properly or is not firing at all. If you have distributor-less ignition the plug leads / wires quality is crucial and you must only use Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM) lead sets supplied do a compression test, this information will be useful later on down the track if all the compression readings are OK. At the same time, test for a blown head gasket. If the car o/heats you may have found your problem. If compression test yields at least 120psi in all cylinders it should fire (that's about minimum). Then you must establish the maximum variation between cylinders; more than 20psi will cause a noticeable imbalance and affect idle. To isolate the valves from the rings in that I mean which is leaking, you will have to perform a cylinder balance test. If bad cylinder follows rpm and has no effect removing a lead at idle or at 3000 rpm it is a valve leak. If it improves at 3000rpm it is piston rings. If it gets worse at 3000rpm it is the valve train ie springs. If you get the last reading described but a compression test is OK then it may be a worn camshaft. If you get an improvement as with rings and the compression test comes up good it is a vacuum leak or cracked head (across ports). If now you are satisfied with of the mechanical ability of the engine then move to mixture related faults and that starts with vacuum leaks. While idling spray a small amount of water around the manifold where it branches to the low cylinder/s at the manifold to head and around all vac hoses. If it causes a large change in running you have found a leak you can also use carbie clean but don't spray near the distributor with it, you will set your distributor on fire. Then go to each vac hose, brake booster, auto tranmission modulator line, and any others and one by one (I mean that) isolate them from the manifold. This will give a change of RPM if there is a leak or it is sucking air from a signal only vacuum line such as the modulator. Ensure the PCV valve is not gummed up fit one if in doubt it will improve fuel economy anyway. Much faster to connect a scan tool and read the engine parameters... |
| Posted By: Posted On: Mar 14, 2006 Views: 1273 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. You are talking to a guy who is proud of fixing the weight in a toilet. James, taking the ****ing car to a mechanic before you kill yourself. |
| Posted By: Jimmy Posted On: Mar 14, 2006 Views: 1265 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. That's right. He did brag up the toilet thing but on the other hand he invented an engine for Nasa. I am betting that a $400 engine doesn't have computer hook-ups and if it did would give a few hunderd fault codes on connection. Plus he can't afford a doctor....oh I see. He posted as 'regular' thinking nobody would recognize him and point out that (a) he should use that money to fix his goddamn eyes and (b) if he was really blind he has no business driving anything but a city bus. |
| Posted By: James Posted On: Mar 15, 2006 Views: 1245 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. Apparently every regular here is me?...... For the tires, take it to a shop. Sucks, but your not getting them on right (spare?). For the miss, what kind of car is it? Check the gap on the plugs, find a diagram on where the leads are supposed to be running to. May be that easy. Go with Mr. GoodWrench, and if you don't have the tools don't try it. |
| Posted By: Jimmy Posted On: Mar 15, 2006 Views: 1236 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. James you aren't fooling anyone. That post was so obviously you. You are the only one that takes a simple question and turns it into life story and in the end you leave off most of the important info to get an answer anyhow. So now you are posting car problems and then answering yourself with answers other people already gave? LOL! retard! |
| Posted By: adam Posted On: Mar 15, 2006 Views: 1214 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. almost every post in this thread is james |
| Posted By: James Posted On: Mar 16, 2006 Views: 1211 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. Well, since every post here is me then I've got a question. How long can a car sit? I check it once in a while to make sure their are no leaks or anything, and I run the engine once a week for about 15 min. Always starts right up. I've changed the park plugs and wires. I'm not going any further than that. I don't have the tools. It's a 1990 Oldsmobile 88 Royale Sedan 4D |
| Posted By: James Posted On: Mar 16, 2006 Views: 1210 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. Spark* |
| Posted By: adam Posted On: Mar 16, 2006 Views: 1200 | RE: Anybody here work on cars? I've a question. well, what are you waiting for...go ahead and answer yourself |
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